The In-Laws’ Grand Adventures: Bucharest Edition - Part Two

Exploring Bucharest: A Day of History, Music, and Indulgence 

Our first full day in Bucharest started as all good holidays should, at a leisurely pace, with no strict plan beyond seeing where the city took us; but we did have a list of things we might see and places we might (or should) eat, as recommended by friends (and the internet!). Wandering through the Old Town, we soaked up the atmosphere, admiring the mix historic buildings, and the general charm of the place. 

 

A Step Back in Time: The Museum of Romanian History 

Our first proper stop of the day was the Museum of Romanian History, an imposing building that holds centuries of the country’s past within its walls. There’s far too much to see in a rush so we confined ourselves to a few key exhibitions, starting with Diplomacy Through the Ages, a fascinating look at Romania’s role on the world stage over the centuries. The Romania in WWII exhibit was particularly thought-provoking, shedding light on the country’s complex past during the war. 

The real highlight was Trajan’s Column. It’s actually a replica, housed in a specially built hall at the museum. The original, built in 113 AD to commemorate the emperor Trajan’s victory over Dacia (ancient Romania), still stands in Rome. Here in Bucharest, we got to see the intricate carvings up close, vividly depicting scenes from the event, including religious ceremonies, King Decebalus’ surrender, and Roman soldiers presenting Trajan with decapitated Dacian heads, as well as more everyday scenes of farming. A fascinating glimpse into history!

 

A Midday Pause at Caru’ cu Bere 

 

With our brains full of history, it was time for a break. We headed to Caru’ cu Bere, a legendary Bucharest institution. The name literally translates as 'The Beer Waggon,' but the building itself is stunning. The stained glass, carved wood panelling, and ornate ceilings give it a religious or royal feel—it’s like stepping back in time. To add to the delights, a live string recital happened as we sipped our drinks, which made the whole experience even more magical. We were already sold on the place, so we booked a table for dinner later that evening.

 

Books, Cake, and a Little Tipple 

 

Feeling suitably refreshed, we wandered through the Old Town a bit more, taking in the lively street scene before making a stop at Cărturești Carusel, on Strada Lipsoni: A dream of a bookshop. Spread over several floors, it’s light and airy with a dramatic staircase, curved balconies, an atrium, and it's the kind of place where you could lose yourself for hours. Being also stocked with a good range of gifts like stationery and totes, the debit cards came out, of course. But we weren’t just here for the books; we had our eyes on the café, where we treated ourselves to hot chocolates, beers, and massive slabs of cake. There was banana bread for some, chocolate brownie for the others, and it was just the chilled stop we needed. Many people seemed to be using the seating areas to work or study, and it’s certainly a lovely place for a digital nomad to pass a couple of hours.

 

An Afternoon on the Terrace 

 

With full stomachs and slightly heavier bags (because who can resist buying a book or an urgently needed new notebook?), we made our way back to our base, Hotel Capitol, for a bit of a rest. The hotel’s terrace is an inner courtyard on the first floor and wasn’t open for service, but that didn’t stop us from making use of it. It’s equipped with heaters and lights, should you wish to pass an evening there nearer the summer. With a bottle of prosecco and a couple of beers, we spent a lazy hour or so just unwinding, enjoying the fresh air, and toasting a great start to our trip. 

 

Evening at Caru’ cu Bere 

 

A nap and a shower later, we were ready to head back out for our evening meal at Caru’ cu Bere. Given how much we’d loved the place earlier, we had high hopes for dinner, and it didn’t disappoint. Our table was upstairs, and although it was very busy, the service was fantastic. There was live music and folk dancing; we couldn’t see it clearly from our table, but we could certainly hear the tunes! It added to the atmosphere, and it was easy to get up and have a look.

The food was good and tasty, proper hearty portions too. Between us, we had the wagyu burger, pork, turkey schnitzel, and a load of sides we definitely didn’t need but couldn’t resist.

 

The real stars of the show were the puddings

We thought we were being sensible, ordering just two to share—a pavlova-style sundae and a traditional Romanian doughnut filled with sweet cream cheese and drizzled with sauce. Well, it turns out we’d underestimated Romanian portion sizes! When two massive doughnuts arrived, each on their own plate, we hesitated and said, "Erm, we only ordered one?" The waiter just laughed and said, "That is one serving!"

Safe to say, we gave it a good go, but even with four of us, we were absolutely stuffed.

Including drinks, the bill came to under £40 per person. What great value!

The hotel bar closed at ten, which was disappointing, but we managed to get a nightcap from the staff finishing up in the restaurant while we made plans for the following day.

Next up: Bucharest’s Palace of the Parliament: bigger, bolder, and madder than we imagined. And just when we thought we’d seen it all, we found a spot serving next-level toasties. Don’t miss it!